Day 38: Leer to Bremerhaven
(61 miles, 525 ft of gain, Komoot map)
After I [sadly] had left the tour on July 10 in Hamburg, Germany, Claire and Uri chugged through Germany and bisected Denmark. My departure was really challenging for Uri, and it opened an emotional can of worms regarding other uncertainties: would Uri be happy traveling solo in Norway? Should he sacrifice his goal of getting to the Arctic Circle and, instead, join Claire and her friend in their travels through southern Scandinavia? These questions were intermixed with the reality that he was only halfway done with the tour and still had the hardest, most remote section left to bike.
Regardless of the upcoming uncertainties, the rest of the day's ride promised endless agricultural fields and strong tailwinds that nudged Claire and Uri east to Bremerhaven. Reaching the actual town required a ferry crossing the mouth of the Weser river, which connected directly to the North Sea. This water access made Bremerhaven the 4th largest port in Europe, and interestingly, the city had an entirely foreign [to Uri] feel to it: the dry, empty banks of the river gave way to large skyscrapers; Uri felt like he was entering a Middle Eastern city.
It was in this city that a retired, pony-tailed, ship captain named Bjorn became their Warmshowers host for the night, and he picked them up by bike at the ferry's landing, guiding them like a lighthouse to his home. As the three of them crossed town, the modern buildings on the river's edge transformed into more traditional architecture before they all arrived at Bjorn's house on the border of an urban park. The house was a two-story penthouse with modern touches. Even though Uri was emotionally drained that day, Claire and Uri had pleasant small talk over cheese with Bjorn and his wife, Heidi. It was clear that Heidi wasn't interested in hosting, seemingly stressed from work with little desire for socializing. Despite her disinterest, Heidi served excellent gnocchi for a (thankfully) short-winded dinner. On another day when they wouldn't be so exhausted, they would have played the German version of Catan. Alas, Uri and Claire retired to their separate bedrooms and slept very well.
July 11: Day 39 Bremerhaven to Wellencamp
They left Bremerhaven in the morning and headed east on flat roads through seas of corn and grain. Along the route, they passively met another Warmshowers host, a short old lady who was positively flying on her old cruiser bike (the elderly in Europe kick our asses on the bicycle). Their conversation was brief, but she convinced Claire and Uri to tweak the route for some salt marsh and the North sea vistas. Jumping at the opportunity, they made the adjustment and were then sandwiched between the large marsh and a dike. The view wasn't that amazing, but it was a welcomed break from the crop fields that dominated this leg of the tour (i.e. definitely worth it). After leaving the marsh, they pit stopped at an old guesthouse for a beer (the deliciously alcohol-free ones!), which had become a refreshing staple on the trip. Two old ladies tried to communicate with them, but the language barrier was too strong that both groups couldn't understand each other.
With thunderclouds building in the west, Uri and Clare finished strong with a final push to Wellencamp. The campsite was a small, mom-and-pop's operation on horse farm, a refreshing change from the large camps that dominated much of Western Europe. There was a small pond, hot water access, good wifi, and a place to cook. A paradise.
That night, Claire and Uri slept through their first thunderstorm.
July 12: day 40 Wellencamp to Schleiswig
(53.8 miles, 1,325 ft of gain, Komoot map)
They woke in the morning to winds and grayness, foreshadowing the day to come. After packing up camp, the day unfolded to become one of the ugliest of riding: gross highways, bike lanes of cracked concrete, and more endless corn and grain crops. Despite the mediocre scenery, the mood wasn't bad, and they were motivated to get to Schleiswig for their rest day.
Schleiswig is along the Schlei inlet and is a quaint town with notably pretty shops and restaurants. It seems like a regional tourist destination, and it was the first town with a discernible Scandinavian influence: there were Viking and Norse mythology statues scattered throughout the city center.
The two managed to snag the last room at the town's cheap hotel, "The Dom Hotel". Its lobby was old and smokey, and its rooms had some apparent deficiencies: open holes in the walls and clogged drains. Despite the aesthetic blemishes, the beds were decent, and the television showed a variety of bike races. What more could ya ask for?
July 13 Day 41: Schleiswig, Germany
On their rest day, Uri and Claire planned out the remaining trip in Denmark and bought ferry tickets to Oslo. They grocery shopped and walked around downtown, a large pedestrian-only area lined with shops and restaurants. Uri spent most of his time in the public library researching Norway. If he was going to go solo, he wanted to know what he was committing to. The research consisted of combing the route for services like grocery stores, public transportation, and bike shops to get a sense for the remoteness of the Far North. The results were promising: food and public transportation were never more than 50 miles away. It was a respectable (and hilly) distance, but it was one that could almost always be accomplished [with some discomfort and acceptable risk]. Easy peasy.
July 14: Day 42: Schleiswig, Germany to Øster Løgum, Denmark
(52.1 miles, 1800 ft gain, Komoot map)
Feeling refreshed from the break, Uri and Claire departed Schleiswig for Scandinavia. They continued north to the large city of Flensburg, marking the final city before crossing into Denmark. Much like Schleiswig, this city was pretty and had retained many of its historic structures. More importantly, they desperately needed a laundromat in town, and like a true dirtbag, Uri waited in nothing but his rain gear while the rest of their atrocious clothing tumbled in the washer.
After Flensburg, Denmark came with the most obvious border crossing of the entire trip: flags, signs, and even some law enforcement. Prior to this, there may have been a subtle border crossing sign somewhere, but otherwise you didn't really know you were in a different country unless you 1) noticed the crossing on a map or 2) suddenly everyone spoke a different language (a very helpful cue). Uri and (especially) Claire were ecstatic about crossing into Scandinavia. While the bike lanes immediately ended upon entering Denmark, there was a lot of fast pavement riding with few cars and (more) corn fields as far as the eye could see. Ah, just like home.
They closed the book on the day at a shelter that seemed illegal to sleep in. A local had advised them to come here, and it resembled a Boy Scout summer camp. Surprisingly, the small towns that they passed through this day appeared economically depressed, a stark contrast from Uri's imagination that all Scandinavia would be a socialist Utopia. Despite the abandoned shops and unkept houses, everyone was incredibly kind, displayed by the kind local nudging them to stay in this spot. This free shelter/camping trend would characterize Scandinavia for Uri and Claire.
July 15: Day 43 Øster Løgum to Randbøldal
(51.1 miles, 1,275 ft of gain, Komoot map)
This was the first day that Uri and Claire were in Denmark entirely, and it was a great day! For the most part, the landscape was full of unremarkable agricultural fields (cereal grains/corn) and rolling hills. However, the fields were also intermixed were fun, gravel trails and pockets of forest, breaking up the monotony and providing more natural terrain.
What actually made the route in Denmark more remarkable was the history. In fact, all of Denmark would be fascinating from the human-history component as this route ran concurrent with a historic pilgrimage that followed an ancient road traversing the country. Along this route were scattered burial mounds as old as the bronze age, some with inscriptions from the viking era. There was a special kind of energy felt when running into one of these burial mounds in the middle of an agricultural field or forest, knowing that humans had been there thousands of years earlier. Uri and Claire passed one of the most intriguing burial sites this day, one that featured the outline of a giant ship (about 60 m/ 200 ft in length) made with stones. It symbolized the departed going to afterlife, and this particular ship was created for a stone maker's mother in the year 900.
The day ended at the Kirstinelyst shelter south of Billund and Bredsten. These shelters were small and cute A-frame structures with roofs covered in peat-moss, specifically, to pay homage to the traditional building material of the area (a protected nature preserve that comprised large meadows and peat clearings).
July 16: Day 44 Randbøldal to Kragelund
(50.8 miles, 2900 ft of gain, Komoot map)
In the morning, they entered Gelling, and immediately after arriving, it was apparent that there was something special about it. During a shopping break, a local told Uri that the town hosted a Unesco world heritage site. Specifically, it was a site that Lord Harold Bluetooth proclaimed his rule over the Danes and created the kingdom of "Denmark". The area was marked with the largest stone ship of the country, two large burial mounds, and a church that had stones with viking inscriptions. One of these stones is thought to be the first time the word "Denmark" was ever used. Also, does the name Harold Bluetooth seems familiar? His initials are used as the Bluetooth symbol on electronics as a cheeky reference— just as Lord Bluetooth united the Danes, so too Bluetooth unites electronic devices.
Thank you, Lord B!
After Gelling, rolling hills, quaint small towns, and large agricultural fields characterized the day. They concluded at an old church where an entire wing was devoted to hosting pilgrims overnight. At this pilgrim hostel, Uri and Claire met a couple from Barcelona (Gabriela and David). She was an Australian native, a professional cellist, and instructor. He was a Catalan writer and translator. The four of them had philosophical conversations about gun rights and the holocaust: their new acquaintances claimed that holocaust museums should celebrate the cultural differences between Jews and others while Uri argued that museums should highlight the fact that European Jews were just like any other member of their society. For a more in-depth description of the dilemma, listen to the first episode of "Adventures With Dead Jews", an excellent podcast recommended by Gabriela (and now also Uri). The conversation went late into the night, and it was deep, friendly, and stimulating. Though, it ended on a slightly sore note as Claire's brother had just become a father that day, and Gabriela very openly pressured Claire to start a family of her own before it was "too late".
July 17: Day 45 Kragelund to Døstrup, Denmark
(54 miles, 2000 ft of gain, Komoot map)
It was clear that the flat lands of Germany and the Netherlands were over as Uri and Claire began a second day of rollers. Compared to the monotonous flats that characterized the last month, the hills were actually a welcome change of pace (literally). Today, the pair reached Vieborg, the first large city on their route in Denmark. While the towns and countryside weren't much to write home about, the cities were more like it! Instead of having little variation in building architecture in the towns and lack of non-church green spaces, the central streets of Vieborg were lined with hanging flowers baskets, coffee shops, and bars, fostering a charming and social atmosphere.
A short city break, and Uri and Claire were back on the hills! Reminiscent of the past few days, their ride had small rain shower bursts and generally chilly weather. Fortunately, services were never hard to acquire in Denmark. Need to warm up? Plenty of stores. Need to fill up water or use the bathroom? Every cemetery had a faucet, 24/7 restrooms, and some had showers! (Seriously, this is primo information). More importantly, need to sleep? There is an overabundance of free shelters across the country. This day was no exception as they found shelters in a public park fit with a zip-line and obstacle course. To Uri's surprise, the park was also visited by a Colombian family with whom he was able to converse with in Spanish. Who would have though that the middle of Denmark had a small village with native Spanish-speakers!?
Claire and Uri talked for a while about their families and the stress of the trip, bonding over common difficulties and shared feelings. Although Gabriella's comment about family the previous night was uncomfortable, it definitely made for good conversation. It was during this conversation that Uri felt like his mind was made up—he wanted solo travel once more. In one part because the Arctic was so close and was undeniably beautiful. In another part because he wanted to test whether solo travel would feel any different compared to the start of the tour since he had come such a far way in his abilities. A perfect way to test his growth since France! If it didn't work out, he knew that he would be able to end it and rejoin Claire and her friend.
July 18: Day 46 Døstrup to Aalborg, Denmark
(37.5 miles, 3,475 ft of gain, Komoot map)
Another rainy day for the Scandinavian books. The wetness made riding especially challenging as the gravel and hills became harder when muddy. Fortunately, the corn and grain fields delightfully converted to forest and pastures, which Uri noticed while cycling on a single-track through a cow field.
Misery loves company: the rain and cold had Uri and Claire bonding over warm food for longer than they would have liked to admit. After much debate, it was settled: fish and chips. That's what they needed. Thankfully, the day ended in Aalborg, the fourth largest city in Denmark with a staggering 122,219 people, and, thus, promising excess cuisine options. Here, the two were able to find an English pub with exactly what they were looking for. In line with the cuisine, the pub was decorated in an old English style. Perhaps not the most "travelled" thing to admit, but Uri and Claire relished the similarities of this pub with those back in New York. It's nice to feel a sense of home.
In Aalborg, they stayed at a WarmShowers house with a host named Gregory. He was a 26-year-old French man that had recently moved to work on wind turbines in the area. Although he seemed slightly indifferent about hosting, he was generally kind, offering a sunset walk to an overlook of the city.
July 19: Day 47 Aalborg to Oslo, Norway
(55.1 miles, 2650 ft of gain, Komoot map)
The final day of Claire and Uri riding together: gravel to Fredrichshaven. This was the first day without rain since crossing into Scandinavia which was appreciated since the gravel here was uncharacteristically loose and steep, and it would have been much more difficult if saturated.
Despite the climbing, the ride was pretty yet bittersweet to Fredrichshaven, a small port town in Northeastern Denmark. Here, the two took a very long ferry to Oslo, and very amicably, Claire and Uri decided to split ways: Claire would continue with her friend and explore the Southeastern part of Norway and Sweden and reenter Denmark with the intention of reaching Copenhagen. Uri would stick with the original route and push onward— north to the Arctic!
The ferry didn't leave until midnight. So, with ample time to kill, the two completed chores and ate dinner, befriending a young Norwegian couple, Paul and Bodil, in the process. When it came time to line up for the ferry, they took positions next to many other weathered, badass cyclists who were clearly hungry for adventure. Crossing the ferry threshold, there was a sign that read "the point of no-return", and in so many ways, it was: a split in travel companionship, the wilderness of Norway, and an upcoming epic solo adventure.
Of important note, the ferry was legitimately a cruise. There were Jacuzzis, shopping malls, and restaurants on board, but alas, everything was closed. Like proper bums, all the cyclists (Uri and Claire included), hadn't booked actual rooms and, instead, they all slept in seats overlooking the Skagerrak, the strait running between the Jutland peninsula of Denmark and the southeast coast of Norway.
July 20: Day 48 Oslo rest day
After a terrible night's sleep, the ferry docked in Oslo in the morning. Uri and Claire had brunch at a bakery before beginning their separate adventures. It was time to continue solo, and after a hug and a goodbye, Uri was alone again. Almost immediately, the feeling of "I'm-alone-in-a-foriegn-country" nagged at Uri. But he was determined to get chores done, and, as quickly as the emotion came on, it was promptly replaced by a feeling of focus to prepare for the next leg of the trip.
The first order of business was to try to download the Norway maps onto the Garmin for navigation, which unfortunately required a computer. Claire knew someone in the area, but their house was 30 miles from Oslo. It wasn't ideal to do a 60-mile roundtrip on what was to be a rest day. Having banked on the backroads connection for the necessary maps, Uri started a stressful tour of Oslo's internet cafes, but to his dismay, none allowed him to download the maps onto his GPS. After a wild goose chase around Oslo, Uri desperately texted the couple he met on the ferry, and they invited him over to download the maps at their house. Thank goodness for the kindness of strangers!
Oslo was really nice—the library and opera house were stunning modern buildings, coffee shops were plentiful, there were many outdoor saunas on the bay, and the city was packed with diversity. Uri biked through this all as he did some more traditional rest day errands: groceries and laundry. Conveniently, his Airbnb was near the city center and was a quick walk from many of the city's attractions. The Airbnb was interesting. It was owned by a Polish energy healer who seemed like a scammer, and he was undeniably a weird guy with a weird space. Changing outfits every time Uri ran into him, his most notable look included sunglasses (indoors), gold chains, and sweatpants with gold marijuana leaves. His house was equally eclectic, with screen prints of Michael Jackson and Marilyn Monroe on the wall next to LED lights that were constantly strobing in different colors and casting shadows of stars all over the walls. At least the bed was comfortable and the house quiet.
July 21: Day 49 Oslo to Oppsal
(50 miles, 2925 ft of gain, Komoot map)
Uri biked out of Oslo under a cloud shedding cold rain. Notably chilly, this would be a near-daily weather occurance for most of the trip. Outside the city, bike infrastructure became non-existent, with narrow and windy roads. Fortunately, there was very little traffic, and when there was a car, it was extremely respectful: passing slowly and leaving plenty of space. On this day, the landscape had steep glacial hills and agricultural fields. Apart from the dominance of pine trees instead of deciduous trees, it felt much like being at home.
This day ended with wild camping near the side of a small road. Norway, and generally Scandinavia, is the perfect place to wild camp as they have codified the right-to-roam, or "allemannsretten" in law. This right gives everyone the right to set up a tent 150 meters or more from a house, so long as the land is unfenced and not used for agriculture. Falling asleep was easy for Uri, knowing that he would not be awoken for breaking the law.
July 22: Day 50 Oppsal to Hammar, Norway
Uri woke up to soft rain and a layer of condensation from the night's cold yet humid air. Starting the ride with a long downhill in these conditions quickly shocked him awake for what would be the most challenging day on tour.
Early into the day, Uri's route devolved from pavement to gravel, from gravel to trail, and from trail to an impassable shoreline of rocks. After hauling the heavy bike through boulders and seeing the shoreline disappear into a large lake, Uri had to improvise. Backtracking to the road was the only chance of finding an alternate route. So far, mentally, everything had been okay, but he began to get stressed when he couldn't find the main road. When he did return to it, he had a large climb to get out of the lake valley before heading towards the small city of Hammar, all on gravel roads. The route was incredibly steep, and it was made more difficult by the persistent cold rain, which had turned the gravel into mud. However, that was nothing that some music couldn't fix! With the help of some electronic beats, the stress of improvising a route lifted, and Uri pushed through long stretches of remote gravel roads with a level head and good spirits.
Broadly, if one were to describe the elevation profile of July 22, it would be a short hill from the campsite and then one continuous climb before a descent into Hammar. It was during this descent that the real problems happened. Uri had felt some resistance from his bike chain throughout the day, but by the end of the hill, the chain was stuck and heavily skipping when in the small end of the cassette. Uri tried to diagnose the issue on the side of the road, but, despite the additional help from two cyclists and a call to Claire, no one could fix the issue.
Only 12 miles from Hammar, Uri began to call bike shops and found one that would check out his bike if he made it before the store closed. With a little over an hour before closing, Uri applied a layer of lube on the chain (which helped quite a bit) and prayed that his chain wouldn't break during the final push. With an immense amount of will and effort, Uri arrived 5 minutes before closing time. He was welcomed into the grungy bike shop basement by a Polish bike mechanic named Gregor who did a life-saving tune-up. He tightened the headset, realigned the handlebars, greased the jockey wheels, adjusted the rear derailleur, fixed loose cogs in the cassette, waxed the chain, and trued the front wheel. He did a ton for only $40, and it was all after hours! Who knows what would have happened for the rest of the ride without these adjustments? For this reason, Uri had finally discovered a name for his bike: Gregor!
After the bike repair, it was getting late. But, in the stress of rerouting and addressing bike issues, Uri had skipped eating. Fortunately, the nearby golden glow of heaven, AKA McDonald's, provided wifi, charging outlets, and greasy food. Uri caved into the comfort of warm, high-calorie food and internet scrolling despite the forecast warning of heavy rain in the early evening. With no surprise, by the time Uri finished eating, the cold drizzle picked up again. Fed and with plans to sleep indoors at a nearby hostel, Uri was unfazed. Yet to his dismay, the hostel had no vacancy and rejected Uri, directing him to a nearby town with another hostel. But, Uri couldn't find it. At this point, it was raining heavily, and with Uri thoroughly drenched, he biked into the late evening in search of shelter.
After some large climbs and a single-track trail, he found a place to sleep. It was a beautiful wooden structure with a skylight that pattered in the rainstorm. It was built along a trail for religious pilgrimages and was clearly intended for meditation and prayer rather than sleeping. But it was dry, and Uri was exhausted. The day was done, and Uri fell into a deep sleep on the shelter's floor.
It was clear that Norway was going to be hard. But, surprisingly, the stress that had spiraled Uri into negativity in France didn't return in Norway. Instead, Uri felt mentally strong, and it was just a matter of safety now. Would the constant freezing rain stop him? The end was still hundreds of more miles north, and temperatures would only get colder.
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