I was sitting in class when the professor mentioned we had an exam coming up right before spring break. *tires screech to halt* Spring break? Forget the exam...I had a vacation?!
I had completely forgot a week-long break was on the horizon, and immediately my brain shut off from lecture as I started Googling local bike tours. The only problem is that mid-March is still iffy with the weather (will it snow 5 inches, torrential rain, or be 60F and sunny? Who knows!).
Very quickly, I navigated to The Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal. This route extends from Washington D.C. to Pittsburgh, PA using only bike paths, which seemed like a dream (full route here)! Fortunately, I also have family at both ends and some areas in the middle. Since I would be biking alone, this seemed like a great first solo-bike trip.
Starting at the beginning: the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal (C&O) is a canal that was built in the mid 1800s, and it is 184 miles that extends from Washington D.C. to Cumberland, MD. The towpath is perfect for cycling, running, walking, etc., but it is not paved. Rather, it is crushed limestone and clay that appears like a dirt path, so it could be challenging for skinny bike tires.
From Cumberland to Pittsburgh, you transition onto the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) trail. This trail used to be railroad tracks, so the grade is very flat, if you ignore that pointy bit around mile 200. There are frequent trail towns along the route, so it's easy to fill up on food & supplies and find places to sleep. A great page for seeing amenities, campgrounds, points of interest, food, and route closures is on the GAP webpage: here.
Unfortunately, as of February 2023, there are some (3) critical closures along the route that I had to create a detour around, so the elevation profile typically doesn't look like this (image below); the hills after mile 200 otherwise wouldn't exist. My updated route with the detours can be found here. Most of the detours begin on the GAP section, so the C&O Canal is straightforward and not complicated.
I have a gear list for bike touring that I modify as needed, so all my tentative gear can be found here. Also, when my friend and I biked across the country, we rarely slept at campgrounds, opting for sleeping behind churches and fire stations since we disliked the notion of paying money to sleep outside on the ground. In addition to stealth camping, warmshowers.org has been a great way to be hosted by people who cater specifically towards cyclists, and I can't stress how amazing this resource is (I have also hosted cyclists at my house too!) There are a few hosts along the GAP and C&O, such as near Harper's Ferry and Confluence. When it comes to sleeping arrangements, I generally don't know what I'm doing until I get there. It has worked so far!
Here's the plan (subject to change):
Day 0
Arrive at my brother's house in D.C.
Day 1
Washington D.C. to Harper's Ferry (Mile 60)
Before hopping on the bike trail, I want to first visit the National Mall and snag some pictures of the Washington Monument with my bike. It's too close to not to! I will navigate to the bike trail and begin the route along the Potomac River. The towpath weaves and winds along the river and passes many suburbs of D.C. as you get further and further away from the city center. At mile 54, the town of Brunswick has a campground that would be a nice place to stop for the night if needed (Brunswick Family Campground). If I'm doing well on time, I'd like to explore this town before getting to my final destination: Harper's Ferry (mile 60).
I have heard so many good things about Harper's Ferry. Among the many attractions, there is Jefferson Rock, John Brown's Fort, Shenandoah Falls, The Point at the Rivers, and a cat named Tony, apparently? The Appalachian Trail runs through this town, so it is well equipped to receive travelers. The Harper's Ferry Campground is a potential place to crash at night.
Day 2
Harper's Ferry,WV to Hancock, MD (Mile 124)
From Harper's Ferry, you cross the Antietam Creek aqueduct at mile 69. There are a number of campgrounds and the Antietam Battlefield which isn't far off-route (I'm quickly learning this is a history lover's dream bike tour). Around mile 100, you get close to Williamsport which could be a nice place to stop and get food around lunchtime. There are a few campsites just past this town as well, in case I need to stop early.
At mile 124, you enter Hancock, and this is where I plan on spending my Day 2 night, potentially at White Rock Campground which is slightly past the town.
Day 3
Hancock to Cumberland, MD (Mile 188)
This day seems pretty straightforward. You just mosey along the canal, and eventually get to Cumberland. There are plenty of places to eat and sleep, including two campgrounds. The Cumberland YMCA also has camping available, which is slightly off route.
This ends the C&O Canal.
Day 4:
Cumberland to Confluence (Mile 253)
From Cumberland, you follow the GAP, and there are a few immediate things to see. At mile 4 of the GAP (mile189 from D.C), you can see the Cumberland Bone Caves. Another mile after is the Helmstetter’s Curve, a picturesque view of the route. At mile 190, you cross the Bush tunnel and then the Borden Tunnel.
Unfortunately, the Big Savage Tunnel is closed in March which requires me to route extensively around, beginning at mile 201, going into Frostburg, MD. This could be a nice place to stop for coffee and refuel since the route gets intense (read: hella steep) after this. I always find that University towns are pretty cute too, so it could be nice to explore before continuing. Leaving Frostburg, I will bike on the National Pike which could be a little hairy since the shoulders are very small or non-existent, so this may require some sidewalk biking. The detour rejoins the GAP trail at mile 211 where there is conveniently a bike repair station if needed.
Biking along, you pass the Keystone Viaduct and Bollman Bridge before arriving at Meyersdale at mile 219 which is another good refuel stop with campgrounds. The scenic Salisbury Viaduct is shortly after.
At mile 231, you enter Rockwood and cross the Casselman River. Under normal conditions, you would continue along this route; however, a major closure in Markleton requires another detour around the, otherwise gorgeous, bridges. The route rejoins the GAP at mile 246. Campgrounds in Confluence offer a nice break to end the day, conveniently right before another major climb due to a closure in Ohiopyle.
Day 5:
Confluence to Smithton (Mile 302).
Instead of continuing on the GAP in Confluence through Ohiopyle State Park, a significant culvert replacement is blocking the route. A 1,000 ft climb to Sugarloaf Knob is the shortest detour, albeit a hard climb. While challenging, you are eventually rewarded with a long descent into Ohiopyle where you can R&R; the final detour is done! There are some pretty views, gorgeous bridge crossings, and a 1-mile detour that will lead to Cucumber Falls. Otherwise, the route connects back to the GAP at mile 165, and Sugar Run Falls awaits at mile 269.
At mile 282, you enter Connellsville, and there are more campsite and food opportunities. At 295, you pass some beaches which could be a nice place to stop and relax next to Kilndigging Hill along the Youghiogheny river (yock-o-gainy). Particularly, I am interested in the Cedar Creek Campsite at mile 302 near Smithton which is more like a lean-to rather than a campground. Fortunately, I also have a cousin that lives nearby whom I would love to visit as well!
Day 6
Smithton to Pittsburgh, PA (Mile 345)
From the tiny Smithton, you cross into West Newton and other suburbs of Pittsburgh, like Mckeesport, Duquesne, and Homestead. You can see things like the Homestead Works Pump House, and you cross the Hot Metal Bridge. Finally, the trail ends at Point State Park where the three rivers connect in the city. Voila, the trip is done! There are endless things to do in Pittsburgh, but since I have a ton of family and friends there, I am mostly looking forward to seeing them and relaxing.
Day 7
Drive home day! From Pittsburgh to Harper's Ferry, I can take the Amtrak for cheap, and my brother has offered to pick me up from there.
As with all plans, things go wrong and alternative plans need to be made on the spot. I am hoping that this plan will be doable next month, and I'm super excited to get started!
Update:
If you want to read about Days 1-3 on the C&O, go here. If you want to read about Days 4-6 on the GAP (and everything that went wrong on the GAP), go here.
If you want to watch a fun little video about the trip, check this out:
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