It was an accidental goal, honestly. My partner, Uri, and I knew that the high peaks existed in the Adirondack region of New York, just a few hours away from us. A friend of ours, James, had been an "ADK46er", but we didn't quite know what that had meant yet. Uri and I had never been there, and our first trip in the fall of 2018 was an embarrassing mess.
We were invited to a coworker's house gathering somewhere in the 'dacks. So, we naturally bought a case a beer and some snacks for the road and headed out to the cabin in the woods. We arrived early to scope the area so we wouldn't get lost later, but then we had the grand idea to scrap the plans and go to the "high peaks" instead. How hard could they be, right? This was the east coast, not the west coast. So, after finding the first parking lot we could find, we loaded up the glass beer bottles into our backpacks with a few snacks and a tent/hammock. Into the woods we went.
It was painfully close to sunset, and we hadn't hiked very far before we decided to set up camp at Marcy Dam. We quickly discovered that we had forgot the tent poles, and we didn't have any water, only beer. However, four French Canadians at our tent site, all men in their mid-30s, took pity on us. They were a hilarious group, and we made best of the situation. After lending us their water filter, trading them some beer, and hanging out by the fireside, I quickly realized that these guys were really savvy. I made a mental note of their cooking system, lightweight pots, and calorie-dense meals. Next time, I would be more prepared, but for that night, Uri and I slept on top of a pitiful heap of a tent fabric on the forest floor.
The following day, we packed up early to avoid the walk of shame out of the tent site and decided to hike Mt. Skylight, unknowing that it was the fourth tallest peak in New York, and then Mt. Marcy, the tallest in New York at 5,344 ft. It was a rough climb, to say the least. Being from western Pennsylvania, I never really climbed a "peak" before, and being from Montana, Uri had plenty of mountain hiking experience. However, the eastern mountains are their own special kind of struggle: We quickly discovered that you have to hike through small streams heading up the mountains, and switchbacks basically don't exist. The hiking also entails scrambling over rock ledges and some low-grade rock climbing. For a new couple, Uri and I naturally took the opportunity to show off our adventure skills, even though we were vastly underprepared. Even though it was exhausting and muddy, we kept finding ourselves returning to the Adirondacks over the following years. The more we returned, the more we were slowly checking off the list of high peaks until we completed them July 11th 2021.
Hiking in the Adirondacks is difficult, and oftentimes there can be a lot of type II fun. You may fight for a peak the entire day and either not get a view because there a) isn't one or b) the weather puts you in a dense cloud, and you can't see anything. But, the reward of fighting for the summit is so high, and some of the best times of my life have been in these mountains. I've seen these peaks in the worst of times and the very best of times, just like they've seen me. And that relationship has been beautiful.
My Favorite Peaks
The Dix Range
This is a classic loop that has many gorgeous views along the way. It comprises Macomb, South Dix, Grace, Hough and Dix. Heading from Hough to Dix is my favorite part because of the excess exposure, offering 360 views in some areas.
Saddleback
I am partial to this peak because it was my last one. Coming from Basin to Saddleback lets you do some epic climbing up the notorious Saddleback rock face. While you are climbing, your back is exposed to epic views, and when you reach the top, you feel invincible. At least I did.
Gothics and Armstrong
These are two peaks along the Great Range traverse, and they have some of the most spectacular views. Once you are on top of the range, you don't need to fully descend to reach the other peaks, allowing you to hop from peak to peak. On a sunny day, this is a long but very rewarding hike.
Giant and Rocky
I love these peaks because of the high view reward and shorter traverse. I recommend these for a lot of first-timers. On the way up to Giant, you are hiking along exposed sections which give you epic views from more than just the summit itself.
Algonquin
I only discovered how beautiful this peak was almost 4 years after I originally hiked it. The first time it was in a cloud, the second time it was blue skies, 360 views, and a mind blowing vista. You could sit here on top of the world for hours.
Least Favorite hikes: Blake, Couchsachraga, Allen
What can I say? Long fights to the top with no view aren't my favorite.
Best Times of Year to Hike
Hiking in deep winter, summer, and early fall are the best times to hike. In February, you can have the beautiful, clumpy, snow-laden pines that look like an actual wonderland. In summer, you have the long, sunny days that are perfect for multi-day camping and hiking. And early fall can't be beat with the changing leaf colors and lean-to bonfires with buds.
Please avoid the spring and late fall, if possible. Spring (essentially March- early June) is when the snow is melting. The multi-feet of snow is now softening, and you will start to post-hole, turning the trail into Swiss cheese. It is frustrating, people can get injured on the icy exposed rock surfaces, and the trail can get more damaged. Also, black flies are horrible. In late-fall and spring, it is "mud season". You get wet during the day, and temperatures can go below freezing during the night. Importantly, the trail gets destroyed this time of year by hikers, and you should avoid these seasons if possible to let the trail recover.
What I've Learned
I owe a lot to the Adirondacks for teaching me the fundamentals of what I know about hiking and camping. Compared to my first trip with missing gear, no water, no map, and no plan, I now have a gear list that I can throw together with ease, and I can navigate through the peaks with confidence that I never had before.
Learn camping/hiking etiquette. Yes, there is etiquette.
Go multiple times of the year. The Adirondacks are temperamental, and there is so much beauty throughout the year. What might seem like a crappy peak one day could be one of the best (this was my experience of Algonquin). You will learn a lot about yourself too.
Don't be that person without snowshoes putting holes in the trail.
Microspikes are the MVP of hiking in the shoulder seasons.
A lot of these peaks can be day hikes. If you pack lighter, you will have an easier time on the scrambles and technical parts and a softer descent on your knees.
For peaks that have a junction with an out-and-pack, drop your pack and enjoy the break.
A hot meal can do wonders for your mood at the end of the day.
I hiked during black fly season once, and my bug net saved me.
Listen to the 46 of 46 Podcast for more in-depth details about the hikes.
About Specific peaks
Ranked from tallest to shortest, and strictly my own personal experience
Marcy (5344)
I've hiked Marcy twice now. The first time I hiked it (my very first time in the 'dacks), I wore Teva sandals. Don't do this. It's a long hike, and you start ascending very quickly. The final push is open/exposed rock face, so it can get pretty windy and slippery, and visibility can be low since Marcy is in or above the clouds. Even on a beautiful day, Marcy might be in clouds, but if you stick around long enough you might see some views peak through.
Algonquin (5114)
This is hiked with Iroquois, Wright, and sometimes Marshall. When I first did these, it was incredibly foggy, and the second time was absolutely stunning with a 360 view. I would check the wind speed in advance. Our buddy, James (left) was our epic tour guide for our first foggy experience. Worth doing again if you miss a view the first time!
Haystack (4960)
This is part of the Great Range traverse (that includes Marcy, Haystack, Basin, Saddleback, Gothics, Sawteeth, Armstrong, Lower Wolfjaw, Upper Wolfjaw). It's often paired with Saddleback and Basin (Ha-Ba-Sa). It was an overcast day when I hiked this, but it was a very fun terrain (open rock face scrambling) when approaching the summit. Don't be fooled by the false summit.
Skylight (4926)
My first peak! There is quite a bit of exposed rock, and it was particularly foggy when we went. I didn't know what I was doing (check out that footwear).
Whiteface (4867)
I hiked this in winter, and I didn't have a view; however, the view is known to be amazing. I don't regret hiking this in winter because it felt very post-apocalyptic, which is a feeling you only sometimes get in the high peaks.
Dix (4857)
This is a loop paired with Macomb, Grace (east Dix), South Dix (now Carson Peak), and Hough, though you can bail at other areas along the loop. I recommend hiking this on a clear day because it is one of the most beautiful routes. Also, hike counter-clockwise. There is a large rockslide heading up Macomb, and it is very loose gravel. Going up this slide is much easier than going down it.
Gray (4840)
This is often paired with Skylight; however, I hiked it with Redfield and Cliff because I didn't plan well when I first started hiking. Views were pretty darn good!
Iroquois (4840)
Paired with Algonquin and Wright, maybe Marshall if you want an extension. From Algonquin, it’s a super quick out and back that is stunning with an exposed rock descent and a 360 view from the top. Don’t orphan Iroquois if you don’t have to!
Basin (4827)
This peak can be in a loop with Saddleback, in a trio with Haystack (Ha-Ba-Sa), or you can connect it to the rest of the Great Range. I recommend going up and over Basin first and then up Saddleback because of Saddleback's low-grade rock climbing section.
Gothics (4736)
This is part of the Great Range traverse. Hike this on a beautiful, clear day. The views will not disappoint. It's one of the best views in the park.
Colden (4714)
This was a pretty cool hike with questionable ladder systems. I went in the fall of 2018, back before I decided to photograph all the peaks. It was drizzling with rain, extremely muddy, very foggy, but the autumn leaves were stunning.
In 2022, we returned to do Colden via the trap dike. The ladder and boardwalk systems were in really good condition. The trap dike was a little gnarly, and there were two places that made me feel uncomfortable. At the beginning, water was running over some steep rock ledges, and it was challenging to carefully pull myself on top of them. Then, towards the top of the dike, there was a low grade rock climbing section. One of our members roped in for that section, but 4 of us did not.
Casey finished her 46 doing this route!
Giant (4627)
This peak is paired with Rocky. It has exposed sections on the hike up, so you get some beautiful views in addition to the summit views. The hike is one of the shorter ones, so this is good for first-timers.
Nippletop (4620)
This peak can offer a really great 180 degree view. If you're feeling spicy, some people take topless pics here.
Santanoni (4607)
This is paired with Panther and Couchsachraga. One route is to ascend to Times Square and then choose which route to take to any of these peaks. Another is to do Santanoni by itself. Santanoni was one of the peaks that nearly broke me. We hiked in winter and had to break trail, and snow shoes were a must because the snow was so deep and soft. There was also a false summit that killed my spirits, but after fighting the urge to turn back, we made it to the real summit. One of the best parts was descending into the abyss afterwards. On sunny days, I suspect the view would be really great here, but my view was limited in the snowy cloud.
Redfield (4606)
This peak is paired with Cliff, but I also added on Gray for a long weekend. The beginning was pretty muddy, so hiking in summer or winter might be the better way to go. We didn't get much of a view, but the winter butt sliding is great!
Wright (4580)
Paired with Iroquois, Algonquin, and potentially Marshall for an extension. This peak is incredibly beautiful! Definitely subject to intense wind, but you feel like you’re on top of the world.
Saddleback (4515)
My last peak! And I'm glad I saved it for last. Coming from Basin, there is a technical climb that requires hands, one of the most technical in the whole High Peaks. It can be quite intimidating, and I would only recommend climbing up this instead of down it. The view from the top was unbelievable. This is paired with Basin and Haystack (Ha-Ba-Sa).
Panther (4442)
This has a pretty view, but at the time I hiked this, it was overcast and frosty. This is paired with Santanoni and Couchsachraga. Once you get to Times Square where the trail splits, you have a very short hike to Panther. The trail heading up to Times Square is very rocky and bouldery. I recall my knees were pretty wiped from the constant torquing, and the water coming down the mountain and forming ice made it impossible to hike without spikes.
Tabletop (4427)
Some people might not like this trail because it can get very muddy and wet, but my first impression of it was magical. It was windy and narrow, and the water running through was very cool. The second time I hiked this I even got a view!
Rocky (4420)
This is an offshoot from Giant. It was very windy, but it had a great view. Because it is so heavily trafficked, it was easier to use microspikes in the winter. Unfortunately, you have to descend from Giant to get to Rocky, and then you have to reascend Giant, so it makes for a wonderful outdoor stair stepper.
Macomb (4405)
This is along the Dix range, and I recommend hiking up this peak first due to its notorious rockslide. It's a great place for a snack, obviously.
Armstrong (4400)
This is along the Great Range, and it has one of the best views, along with Gothics. Do this on a gorgeous day!
Hough (4400)
You don't have a full 360 view, but the view you get is gorgeous. People hike this with Dix, South Dix, Grace, and Macomb, and the views along these peaks can't be beat. This peak is definitely overshadowed by Dix in terms of views, so I failed to get a picture here.
Seward (4361)
People hike this with Donaldson, Emmons, and Seymour. The summit was in the trees, and there was no view. Maybe save this one for a cloudy day.
Marshall (4360)
This peak is near Wright, Algonquin, and Iroquois. You can hike it with these for a longer day/ two-day trip or you can hike it separately. There are a couple different routes to get here, and I would recommend avoiding avalanche pass, as it can be pretty tough on the joints. The trails to Marshall are herd path-y and can really scratch you up, so I‘d wear longer sleeves (and a hat to avoid hair pulling). The plane crash isn‘t marked, so definitely make sure you don’t miss it! If you walk past the Marshall sign, you can get a 180 view.
Allen (4340)
People save this one for last because it is among the top least favorite peaks due to its long distance approach and minimal view reward. You will need a whole day for this hike, and as you approach the peak, you will be hiking on slimy, flat rock surfaces with water running through. The final push to the top is very steep and can be a little technical. I wouldn't save this for the last, but rather do it on a summer day with a lot of daylight.
Big Slide (4240)
I have hiked this twice, once in winter (no view) and once in fall (gorgeous view). In winter, be sure to bring a butt slide for sliding back down the mountain. Your glutes will look fabulous after this hike. The picture was taken on the way up to Big Slide, not the summit itself.
Esther (4240)
Paired with Whiteface, this trail seemingly appeared to go forever with constant ups and downs that fooled us into thinking we were close. The summit sign was in the trees, and when we hiked in winter, it was a snowy, cloudy day with minimal vision. I definitely need to rehike to get a summit sign photo and possibly have better vision of the horizon.
Upper Wolf Jaw (4185)
Along the great range and paired with Gothics, Armstrong, and Lower Wolf Jaw. There is a bit of a view, but after hiking Gothics and Armstrong, you might be disappointed. We still caught a sunset, which was amazing. (Slight chance this picture is lower wolf jaw; I have to rehike to confirm.)
Lower Wolf Jaw (4175)
Along the great range and paired with Gothics, Armstrong, and Upper Wolf Jaw. You'll definitely be tired by the time you get here if you had done the rest of the range up to this point. You can also hike this by itself. In winter, the butt sliding is one of the best!
Street (4166)
Paired with Nye, there is a fork where you can choose either Street or Nye. In Winter, this was beautiful with the fat, fluffy, snowy trees. If you pass the sign for Street, you can even get a view.
Phelps (4161)
This was a pretty peak with great views. It has a nice open top where you can sit and admire the views for a while. In the winter, there is some prime butt sliding to be had if you bring something to slide down the mountain on.
Donaldson (4140)
This is paired with Emmons, Seymour, and Seward (one trail forking to Seymour and the other forking to Emmons, Donaldson, and Seward). The views aren't spectacular and the trail can be very muddy. If you do this in summer or winter, it might be drier or frozen, respectively. In this parking lot, the chipmunks broke in and ate our food!
Seymour (4120)
This is paired with Emmons, Donaldson, and Seward (one trail forking to Seymour and the other forking to Emmons, Donaldson, and Seward). We hiked Seymour one day and the other three the following day. It was muddy, and it started raining towards the summit. The foggy lack-of-view was surprisingly nice, but it is worth returning to see the view that is actually here. The herd paths can be challenging, so keep an eye open for scratches on rocks. In this parking lot, the chipmunks broke in and ate our food!
Sawteeth (4100)
This originally made my list for least favorites because it’s intense to go from Gothics to an out-and-back on Sawteeth and then back to Gothics. Also, we didn’t have a view the first time (I didn’t know one existed). When we went back to do it in winter (hiking only Sawteeth this time), we had a beautiful surprise vista on the ascent. It’s definitely worth repeating hikes because the mountains change so much.
Cascade (4098)
Paired with Porter, this is typically a good first-timer hike. The views are pretty lovely, but the particular day I went was icy cold and very windy.
South Dix (now, Carson Peak) (4060)
The peak sign is a bit hidden here, but the view before the peak is a great lunch spot. On a warm day, the rocks are warm, and you can enjoy the view for a while.
Porter (4059)
Paired with Cascade and possibly Big Slide, Porter is good for first-timers as well. The view also isn't too shabby.
Colvin (4057)
This is paired with Blake, and Colvin, itself, isn't too bad. There's a small rope section that isn't very difficult, and you get some pretty, but limited, views from the top.
Emmons (4040)
There is a campsite which allows you to pair Seward, Donaldson and Emmons together in one direction, and the other direction forks to Seymour. I believe that if you go past the sign, you can get a view (but there is a slight chance this is the view from Donaldson; I couldn't distinguish which peak this picture came from). It's notoriously muddy in this section. In this parking lot, the chipmunks broke in and ate our food!
Dial (4020)
I hiked this twice, and the first time, I didn't get much of a view, but the second time was jaw-dropping. You have a couple nice views along the route, and the hike itself isn't very difficult.
Grace (4012)
Paired with Macomb, South Dix, Hough, and Dix, this supposedly has a really nice view, but we have yet to see it. It's an offshoot from South Dix, and it's not very long of an out-and-back. I would recommend dropping your pack, so you can hike faster. This was also the only time I had done a spring hike, and I will never do it that time of year again. I need to re-hike this to experience it in better conditions.
Blake (3960)
Paired with Colvin. This is a terrible peak. It doesn't have a view, and it takes a lot of energy to descend from Colvin, ascend and descend Blake, and reascend Colvin. We also hiked these right after Dial and Nippletop, so this might contribute to having our body wrecked. At the time we hiked, the black flies were out in full swing.
Cliff (3960)
Paired with Redfield. People warned us about the "cliffs", but we didn't find the climbing sections very technical. We hiked it again in winter, and the steep bits became very steep slides that were a bit scary to slide down. We didn't get a view at the top (cloudy), but you get some view on the way up.
Nye (3895)
This is paired with Street. The hiking isn't bad, but there isn't a view here. Bring something to sit on and slide down the mountain in winter!
Couchsachraga (3820)
This is typically among the least favorite of people who have hiked in the Adirondacks. When you are at Times Square at the junction to Panther, Santanoni, and Couch, you have to do a long descent to reach this peak, and then you must reascend back to Times Square. It can get muddy, there is a notorious swamp crossing, and the peak is in the trees. I have hiked this twice now, and the first time was socked in with fog. It was muddy both times, but right before the peak (on a clear day), there is an overlook that makes the struggle a little worth it, at least.
Comments